Watch reference library
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15500ST
Produced 2019 to 2022. Discontinued.
Specifications
- Case size
- 41mm
- Case material
- Stainless steel
- Bezel
- Fixed, octagonal, stainless steel, held by eight hexagonal screws
- Dial
- Black or blue Grande Tapisserie, with additional colorways introduced later in the run
- Movement
- Audemars Piguet calibre 4302, automatic
- Power reserve
- About 70 hours
- Water resistance
- 50 meters
- Crystal
- Sapphire, front and exhibition caseback
- Bracelet
- Integrated stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp
The story
The Royal Oak was designed by Gerald Genta in 1972 as the first luxury sports watch in steel, and the 41mm Selfwinding model has been the standard bearer of that idea for most of the collection's modern history. Reference 15500ST was introduced in January 2019 at SIHH, replacing ref. 15400ST, which had carried the 41mm Selfwinding line since 2012.
The headline change was inside the case. The 15500ST moved to Audemars Piguet's newly developed in-house calibre 4302, replacing the calibre 3120 used in the 15400ST. Power reserve grew from about 60 hours to about 70, the beat rate rose from 21,600 to 28,800 vibrations per hour for a smoother running seconds hand, and the movement is visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback with a 22k gold oscillating weight. On the dial side, AP enlarged the date window at 3 o'clock and removed the luminous dots from the applied hour markers for a cleaner look, while keeping the Grande Tapisserie dial pattern, the octagonal bezel with its eight hexagonal screws, and the integrated bracelet that have defined the Royal Oak since Genta's original drawing.
Audemars Piguet retired the 15500ST in 2022 as part of the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary refresh, replacing it with ref. 15510ST alongside a parallel update to the Jumbo Extra-Thin line, which moved from ref. 15202 to ref. 16202. Collectors treat the 15500ST as the last Selfwinding Royal Oak of the pre-anniversary generation and the reference that introduced the calibre 4302 platform AP still builds on today.
What to check before you buy
AP has always sold the 15500ST as a full set through boutiques and authorized dealers, so buyers in Moda's groups should expect box, warranty card and often the extra links to be present, and treat a bare watch with real caution given how closely AP tracks its authorized network. Because the reference is discontinued, service turnaround through AP's own service centers can run longer than for a currently produced Royal Oak, so ask sellers when the watch was last serviced and whether AP or an independent watchmaker did the work.
The most common question in trading circles is how the 15500ST compares to the 15510ST that replaced it, since the two look nearly identical at a glance. Check the caseback and papers for the reference number rather than relying on the dial alone. On used examples, look closely at the bracelet, since the integrated design means link wear and clasp play are harder and more expensive to correct than on a simple strap change, and confirm the exhibition caseback and dial finish match known photos for the specific dial color before finalizing a deal.
Buying or selling a 15500ST?
Moda is always buying. Text photos to (605) 521-2821 for a fast offer, or start on the Moda Watches page. Looking for one instead? Post it on the want list and the community and Moda's dealers will hunt for it. For any deal with a stranger, Moda's middleman service inspects the watch before money changes hands.
Common questions
What replaced the 15400ST, and what actually changed?
The 15500ST replaced the 15400ST in January 2019. The main change was the movement, moving from calibre 3120 to the in-house calibre 4302, which increased power reserve from about 60 to about 70 hours and raised the beat rate to 28,800 vibrations per hour. The date window also grew larger and the applied markers lost their luminous dots.
When was the 15500ST discontinued and what replaced it?
Audemars Piguet discontinued the 15500ST in 2022 when it refreshed the Royal Oak line for the model's 50th anniversary, replacing it with ref. 15510ST.
Does the 15500ST have a display caseback?
Yes. It has a sapphire exhibition caseback that shows the calibre 4302 movement and its 22k gold oscillating weight.
What is the water resistance rating?
50 meters, which is typical for a Royal Oak Selfwinding model and is meant for everyday wear rather than serious water sports.
Is the 15500ST worth less than the current 15510ST because it is discontinued?
Discontinued status alone does not tell you value, since pricing is outside the scope of this reference sheet. What buyers should focus on is condition, completeness of the set, and whether the specific dial and configuration are what they are looking for, since both references share the same core design and movement family.